Monday, July 17, 2006

On Lebanon, and fleeing it…

“I think I’ll go enjoy Beirut, come back in a few weeks..”—seems like months ago.

I’ve never been to Lebanon but have been meaning to for quite a while. Thus, it was I who planned the whole trip for my family—from impossible last minute flight bookings and accommodations to entertainment. I was quite smug by how easily I managed it all with a couple of day of phone calls.

The clan arrived at Hariri International Airport. We drove out of the airport through enchanting Beirut and on northwards to the seaside region we chose for its charm and more importantly, scarcity of gulferns. The owner, a long time Lebanese resident after fleeing his own war-ridden tyrant-ruled country years ago, met us outside and was the epitome of Lebanese hospitality. Already, we loved the place.

My mother was already unpacking in the room as I rummaged through mine deciding what to wear. “Wait... why don’t you unpack, it’s unlucky not to unpack as soon as you arrive” she called out. But the night was young and my partner-in-crime and I were eager to visit one of the many night spots we picked out. Because of the warm atmosphere and the personable owners and employees, many of the guests would lounge about in the lobby, chat, and get to know each other. There was our neighbor, an Iraqi woman with four daughters, blonde wisps of hair framed her strong boned face. She rarely smiled, but was gorgeous enough to pull it off. There was the German couple, out of the loop when the conversation turned Arabic, but giggly nonetheless. Of course there were three Saudi young men whose conversation stopped and eyes followed if we dared to pass by. We walked down to the lobby and mingled for some time until the driver arrived.

For the next few days, we scuttled to the beach down the road in the morning, spent the afternoons lounging on the balcony enjoying the amazing mountain and sea views, and ventured out every night to various entertainment venues-- I danced until my feet ached and laughed until my cheeks hurt. In those few days, Lebanon became my favorite vacation spot, especially the northern town we picked—unpretentious, quiet, scenic, and very charming.

We were having such a grand old time that no one ever thought to turn on a TV, much less the news. One day—the precise day escapes me— I walked into the lobby dragging my feet and towel with my hair sandy and dripping trying to make an unnoticed beeline for the elevator when the sight of the ominous gathered guests with their attention directed at the TV made me halt. It was the initial raid by Israel on the south. As I continued on my way up to my room and chucked it to yearly commotion, it didn’t occur to me that this hasn’t happened in over 10 years. Next, Hariri airport was hit and shut down, the news spread and the streets were jittery. Still, denial is powerful. We had just arrived, the ink on my plane ticket hasn’t even dried, and we were still having a great time and were convinced, with the added assurance of the gregarious chuckling owner, that it would surely all boil over. We’ll just wait for the airport to reopen, we figured.

Overnight, however, the airport and its oil reserve, as well as il-Dahiya later on, were hit. At 3 A.M, the guests gathered in the lobby again… the German couple was nervous, the Iraqi woman even more so. She suddenly got up and left to her room. The next day we woke up to hear that she took her daughters and was driven to Syria in the veil of night, she was extremely lucky.. the road she took was in ruins hours after she crossed.

Well that’s that, we figure, can’t leave through Syria. So we went down to lunch by the shore—yes, I know, crazy… but as I said, denial... also, north of Beirut seemed safe by all accounts.

As we’re having lunch in the deserted restaurant, we get a phone call from a friend that has just left through Syria asking us to go down to the Saudi embassy immediately, they’re sending out buses to Syria and the next few buses would be the last to leave. We called the embassy all day… no answer. That night, after escalating conditions, a couple of us decide to drive down to the embassy.

As I get into the car, new tenants arrive. These are different than the giddy tourists from a few days back, these are families that fled their ruined southern homes... they’re gloomy and carry no luggage.

Our car sped down the highway to Beirut, and then through the road with water on one side and the quiet city on the other. Beirut is deserted… not a soul. Solidaire(sp?), that only a few nights ago was abuzz with Khaleeji parading throngs, was desolate. It was a most depressing sight. At the embassy, we are told to bring our luggage and leave on the first bus in the morning. We get back to our hotel, pack, and go down to the lobby only to hear from the driver that an Israeli ship very close to the road we took has just been hit. It’s no longer safe to drive there.

To be continued… I have some pictures I took and I’ll see if I can load them up from out here.

| 15 CoMmEnTs| -- Posted by [[ On My Own ]]--|Permanent Link|

15 Comments:

Oh my god! Are you still there? I hope everything will turn out all right very very soon :S I got other friends who got out as well as friends who are still there. Keep blogging. We're all praying for you and Lebanon.

Be safe.

By  SunShine, at 16 July, 2006 18:55  

salamat.
it can't have been fun to watch Beirut burning.. and on your first trip to Lebanon as well.

glad to hear you're safe and sound- i doubt this mess will blow over anytime soon.

By  confused arab chick, at 16 July, 2006 19:03  

Wow. Well, it sounds like you are out of there, and someplace else in one piece -- news I am very glad to hear.

I know I don't speak for myself when I say that a lot of people have been thinking about you.

By  Robin, at 17 July, 2006 11:03  

What I got from your post is that you're safe and sound write now and are writing about the past couple of days.
I hope it's true and I'm so glad you're safe, Leeno! I had no idea you'd be in the midst of this; for some reason I can't recall the number of people who planned on going to Lebanon this summer, so I get shocked whenever I hear that some and some got back home safe lino I'd go "why were they in danger in the first place?" then it'd hit me :S

Allah y7meekom inshallah ♥

By  Anonymous, at 17 July, 2006 12:33  

This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

By  Anonymous, at 17 July, 2006 12:46  

Man! I wonder how it felt to be living in the middle of it all...

El 7amdilla 3al Salamma :)

Allah y3een the Lebanese people. My friend Bushra goes to AUB and yesterday she got a call from her prof. telling her not to come back no matter what...

By  Anonymous, at 17 July, 2006 14:05  

I got goosebumps reading that.

By  Sedna, at 17 July, 2006 15:15  

Please hurry up with part two.
I'm linking you on my blog, super-surely. And there's a picture on the blog, the one on the top of all pics in the post. It's photoshop'd by a friend; he'd appreciate it if you'd post it on your blog, as he wants it posted everywhere.
If you like, that is.

Be safe, you and Lebanon.

By  Anonymous, at 17 July, 2006 15:17  

OMG! el7amdellah 3assalama,,, i hope u are all safe and sound.. allah y7fa'6kom inshallah..


POET

By  Aoi_Chokoreto, at 17 July, 2006 18:57  

7amdillah 3la Salamtek! We were worried about you.

By  Taqo, at 18 July, 2006 00:52  

you're post of your experience there just shows how sudden all of this is. Be SAFE inshAllah

By  Stephen, at 18 July, 2006 18:50  

Insha'Allah, you and your family get back home safe.

By  أبو سنان, at 19 July, 2006 05:44  

yeah.. i rememberd u told me u were going to Beirut and when this happened i didn't know if u had went yet or not..
al7amdillah 3la slamatek..
Hopefully everyone there is safe too

By  Bassem, at 19 July, 2006 08:24  

I agree with raf, u didn't unpack right away. Girl, ur mom told u it's unlucky! :p

Update us, and stay safe...

By  $uper MO, at 19 July, 2006 10:43  

Hello everyone...
Thank you all for your prayers and concern. It's always a comfort...
Everyone's safe and pretty damn grumpy I might add heh.

Everytime I contemplate clicking on "delete blog" it is you all that make me think twice. Seriously, Thank you.

Scarlo, I love the picture .. I'm a little strapped for time, but as soon as I can I'll display it on my blog.
Raf and $uper Mo You anticipated my closure.. but ya, damnit I shoulda unpacked.

-----
I wrote this on that same night at the receptionist's computer.. I wasn't scared, nor worried for myself.. but for a country I knew the arab world would not take a stand for. It saddens me to know I was right. Beirut burns, its children die.. and we idly stand by.
Pray everyone.

By  Trevelyana, at 20 July, 2006 19:12  

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